Saturday, August 25, 2007

Final Thoughts on IUP

the IUP building

Academics:
The atmosphere is pretty laid-back, so it depends on what you put in. Especially since class is discussion-based, you really need to prepare ahead of time, but precisely because classes are so small, you'll definitely be able to focus on what you want to improve.

Extracurriculars:
IUP plans a lot of events - 2 weekend trips and weekly activities (ex. mafia, food tours of Wudaokou, barbecues, calligraphy and mahjong classes, Friday movies...) Plus hanging out with friends (and teachers and roommates)!

Life in Beijing:
Because you have many housing options, I highly recommend sharing an apartment with native Chinese people. It's a great way to put yourself out there and meet some new people! Food is also great in China, especially if you're willing to explore, so indulge. Overall, IUP gives you a lot of freedom outside of class =)

I can't believe 8 weeks flew by so fast - there are too many stories to tell, too much advice to give, too many thoughts to develop than can be shared in this blog. I'll be here for the next two months researching, so I'll try to capture some more quintessential moments in Beijing. If you have any questions about IUP, Beijing, research, etc. feel free to e-mail me! Thanks for joining me on this adventure thus far...onto part two! =)

Thursday, August 23, 2007

Last Day at IUP

with Li Laoshi, my hebanke teacher, during our last class

I used to come and hang out with Cai Laoshi and Yang Lihao
after class everyday

silly Huang Deji thanking Zhang Laoshi

IUP graduation party

we (Huang Deji, Yang Lihao and I) were asked to perform
our speech contest poems again

Cai Laoshi, Zhang Laoshi, Li Laoshi and Yu Laoshi's skit:
imitating students (namely, Yang Lihao, Huang Deji and me)

Yao Laoshi, Yuan Laoshi and Zhan Laoshi performing the Chinese piggy version of "Who's on First, What's on Second and I Don't Know's on Third"

Linguistic Accomplishments

Some changes that I've noticed in my language abilities...

I can read magazines! I purchased a copy of the Chinese equivalent of Time magazine, and found that I could understand at least 80% of it. Granted, my reading speed is still pretty slow, but I definitely could not read newspapers or magazines before this summer.

I use Chinese to chat with and e-mail friends, teachers and family members. Unlike before, it no longer takes me forever to write a response, and I don't stress out about using Chinese either. (tip: Google Pinyin is awesome! It lets you type the pinyin for entire sentences so that you don't have to select a word every few seconds. Also, based on your sentence structure, it'll choose the correct “de” and other words for you.)

I understand song lyrics, both listening (on the bus, passing by shops, etc.) and reading (while singing karaoke, of course!). I think a person's ability to process song lyrics really reflects his/her mastery of the language, since the pace is pretty fast and singers often slur words.

I sometimes express myself better in Chinese than in English! While most of my life this summer has been China-centered, a very important part has been English-only: my med school application essays. With each passing day here, I find myself wanting more and more to use Chinese terms, which are often more precise and concise than the corresponding English term, to express my thoughts. Needless to say, using Chinese isn't possible on med school essays, so it has been quite the struggle writing those essays.

My English has gone down the hill (This is not an accomplishment per se, but it shows how much Chinese has seeped into my life). I sometimes find myself, when struggling to find the appropriate English term, trying to translate from Chinese into English. Most noticeably, I really like run-on sentences now, since Chinese sentences often go on and on and on, phrase after phrase, comma after comma without a period in sight...

Monday, August 20, 2007

Speech Contest (follow-up)

Here are the pictures of the teachers, as promised!

Hua Laoshi

Yu Laoshi (left)

Liu Laoshi (right)

Cai Laoshi (right)

Zhang Laoshi

Yuan Laoshi

Li Laoshi

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Measuring Progress

Last Thursday, I took the IUP entry-exit test and got my results back today. Unbelievable how much I've improved! I feel such a sense of accomplishment - I went up over 35 points on a 220-point test, with the most improvement in vocab, which is exactly what I wanted to work on this summer.

Also, I'm becoming much more conscious of my s/sh, c/ch, z/zh problem, often correcting myself before my teachers even have time to mention it. And the sh/ch/zh sounds don't sound nearly as forced as they used to.

I'm seriously contemplating coming back to IUP in the future, whether it's for a summer or for an academic year. If my Chinese can continue to improve at this rate, it's definitely worth it. Plus I'll be able to take electives and self-designed courses!

Meteor Shower

I know you're thinking, how can you possibly see meteors with the light pollution in Beijing? Well, we trekked all the way to the Thirteen Ming Tombs to catch a glimpse of the meteors at 1 am, and it was absolutely amazing! Not only could you see the streaks of shooting stars, you could also see the nebulae of the Milky Way, and the tottering orbits of satellites. One of the coolest things I've done in Beijing by far!

Saturday, August 4, 2007

Speech Contest

My friends and I wrote poems about the teachers, complete with caricatures. The teachers were great sports, so I'm sure they don't mind me posting their cartoon selves here. I'll search for actual pictures for side-by-side comparison:

Hua Laoshi

Yu Laoshi

Liu Laoshi

Cai Laoshi

Zhang Laoshi

Yuan Laoshi

Li Laoshi

Result: SUCCESS!

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Getting to Know the Teachers

IUP has Chinese Table every week, but it's never actually at a table. The activities have ranged from touring Wudaokou, to playing mafia, to this week's barbecue. The most surprising thing about the barbecue: the size of the grill.
Hua Laoshi and one of two grills. Can it feed 30 people?!

Surprisingly, the food was never in short supply and some people decided to skip dinner, but I was among the teachers and students who opted not to. So, we all went out to a Yunnan restaurant (by the way, I've been there many many times and definitely worth returning), ate yummy pineapple rice, and rice noodles, and Chinese mashed potatoes, and much much more.

During dinner, we played a Chinese version of rock paper scissors/truth or dare with chopsticks! A little hard to explain, but basically one person starts our with a pair of chopsticks. He/she plays rock paper scissors with the person on one side and the loser takes one chopstick. Repeat on other side with other chopstick. Since you're in a circle, the chopsticks keep getting passed around until someone ends up with both chopsticks. And then it's truth or dare time!!! Definitely a great way to get to know the teachers...hahaha.

Friday, July 27, 2007

Biking Accomplishments

Having almost conquered my fear of biking (hindered by two experiences, one in which I biked into another bike and one where I nearly ran into a pedestrian had he not grabbed my handlebars and stopped me), I took my new bike-riding abilities to the streets of Beijing yesterday. And, not only did I not get myself (or anyone else) injured, I, who always bikes with both hands firmly grasping the handlebars, managed to send a text message with one hand while steering with the other! Hoorah! Up next: biking in the rain, one hand holding an umbrella...

Saturday, July 21, 2007

Fun

Kaoyu and KTV with classmates and teachers after our midterm.
The teachers all rode their bikes, but we were too chicken to bike 20 minutes on Beijing streets during rush hour.

A friend and I went out for cake and got asked to fill out a consumer satisfaction survey. Putting our newfound Chinese knowledge to good use - we could actually read and answer all the questions! (the girl did laugh a little though because it took us longer than native Chinese people to fill it out)

Thanks to Carol Yu, former Light Fellow at HBA/IUP, for recommending this tiny kimbap place in Wudaokou. It's called Shrek, and super yummy.
You eat at the bar looking onto the street.
The owners got really confused when my friend and I spoke intermittently in Chinese/English/Korean (only for food names) and couldn't figure out where we were from...

our kimbap

"napkins" on the wall

Shrek really is tiny. that's the Jeans West store next door.

Thursday, July 19, 2007

I heart IUP teachers

Tomorrow is our midterm, which isn't stressing me out nearly as much as I think it should, as evidenced by the fact that I am surfing the web and updating my blog. But as I was preparing for this midterm, I was struck by how thoughtful and dedicated the teachers are, so I thought it would be worthwhile to give a few examples:

- for tomorrow's midterm, there is a section devoted to chengyu (aka. 4 word Chinese proverbs). my danbanke teacher Song Fang Laoshi composed a very lengthy essay just for me, with fill-in-the-blank chengyu spaces, all because I said I wanted to practice some more!
- my classmates and I somehow started talking about Harry Potter during class one day, so the next day my listening hebanke teacher Yu Yan Laoshi came in with a few pages of the Chinese translation and worked it into our class!
- for this past week, I've been sticking around IUP studying until dinnertime since I'm unbelievably unproductive at home. I've been leaving at around 7, when some teachers are coming back from dinner and going back to work. And they get there before 8 am everyday!

After the exam in the morning, we will have one-on-one chats with each of our teachers to go over the exam (they correct it during lunch!) and discuss our views on the class. Much as I hate tingxie (ie. dictation), I will be asking my danbanke laoshi to start giving me tingxie everyday. I've found that while I can use what I've learned, I'm having a hard time remembering how to write the characters. I will also be talking to my other listening hebanke teacher Zhang Yilin Laoshi about how she could make her class more interesting and less awkward.

And then, at night, we're going out for kaoyu (ie. baked fish) with some of the teachers, and perhaps karaoke!

Sunday, July 15, 2007

Cultural Crossroads

After nearly two months in China, I'm starting to become numbed to the environment around me. What might have once struck me as odd or amusing (like how Beijing plans to ban 1/3 of its cars for the Olympics), now just seem commonplace. I dismiss things with an oh-that's-Beijing, that's-China sort of attitude. On one hand, I am blending into the culture much more than I ever have before, but on the other, I am losing my drive to evaluate the world around me. Instead of just accepting things as they are, I've stopped questioning why they are the way they are.

It was refreshing, then, to go to lunch yesterday at the home of a fellow IUPer and talk about East/West differences - in education, in business, in values, etc. All of us were 1.5 or 2nd generation immigrants straddling two cultures. While I've always realized how unique of a situation it is to understand two cultures, I never recognized my role in light of that knowledge. This couple, though, being older and married, was discussing how they should raise their kids: where to raise them, which traditions to carry on, which new ones to adopt, which ideals to merge... Having grown up in both worlds, we take them as they are, but when you need to process and pass them on, you realized how complicated navigating a middle ground can be. To borrow from (and reword) Spiderman: with great knowledge comes great responsibility.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Thoughts on IUP

IUP truly does give you a lot of freedom. Not only can you do whatever you want with your time outside of class, you can also discuss almost whatever you want in class. For instance, today in danbanke (one-on-one), even though my lesson was on the Chinese education system, we talked about the 2008 presidential elections while still using vocab and grammar structures from the textbook. And even in hebanke, because it's such a small class, there's a lot more room for discussion, too.

I will admit that sometimes the teaching is a little stilted. It really does depend on the teacher, if he/she is flexible enough to pursue the topic at hand while still directing you to use vocab and grammar from the lesson. My danbanke laoshi, Song Fang laoshi, is amazing!! She really tries to cater the lesson to my interests, and listens very patiently while I explain complicated things like how the lesson on being healthy (written in the 80s) is completely wrong about the causes of the common cold. She has also drawn me little diagrams of how I should place my tongue, since I have trouble distinguishing s/sh, z/zh, c/ch sounds. Everyday, I also get a little post-it to remind me of all the words I mispronounced and slowly, but surely, my accent is becoming much more accurate.

Two of my hebanke teachers are also great. My classmates in my reading hebanke and I get along marvelously - I think our teacher, Li Lu laoshi, is pretty amused by our silliness, but our comraderie makes for much less awkward situations. For instance, we were practicing the measure word 一番, which is used for periods of time. Example: 高兴一番 (to be happy for a while), or 打扮一番 (to get ready - ie. get dressed, put on makeup, etc.). So she asked one of the guys in the class, "if Wen was to 打扮一番, how would she look?" [pause] [everyone (myself included): uncontrollable laughter] my classmate: "If Wen were to 打扮一番, she wouldn't be so ugly." [more uncontrollable laughter]

My classmates in my listening hebanke are much more serene (they're also much older, one is 28 and one is 30), and so we don't laugh quite as much, but we have very lively and mature discussions on topics like feminism, spending habits, parenting, etc. Unfortunately, we're all a little thrown off by the teaching method of one of our teachers, Zhang Yilin laoshi. She is the most regimented of all my teachers in terms of sticking to the textbook. To liven things up, she tries to crack jokes or ask funny questions, but they don't always come across and we end up in awkward silence. When we have difficulty saying something, she is much more eager than our other teachers to finish our sentences, oftentimes not the way we wanted to finish them. Also, she overly stresses the details of the recording (for instance, last week's lesson was about people's reading habits and the future of books, and she kept asking us which person in the recording liked which book). It was really frustrating because details like that don't help us learn vocab/grammar. We're contemplating whether or not to go to her and discuss this, or go to Zhang Kai laoshi, who oversees the teaching here and encourages us to go see him with any concerns, however minor, that we may have. I think we'll wait out this week and see if we have specific complaints/suggestions for her.

Last week, Zhang Kai laoshi called a quick assembly and stressed that we're at IUP to learn 方式 (method) as opposed to 内容 (content). If we can't say what we want to say (content) correctly (method), then we should say something simpler but correctly (ie. choose method over content). So sometimes, class will be boring. I agree that that's a very valid point, so perhaps some of our frustrations stem from saying something we don't really want to say because we don't know how to say what we really mean. In any case, the teaching method in classes is something IUP is definitely working on. Charles Laughlin is the new director and is meeting with all the students this week to get to know them, find out our concerns and suggestions, etc. I met with him today, and that was definitely one of the things he wanted to address.

Otherwise, though, I'm loving IUP. Food around Wudaokou is amazing - my classmates and I are currently working our way to all the restaurants around Qinghua, at least the places our teachers recommended. The teachers are also super approachable outside of class. Last week, two of us played tennis with our teachers. This week, Chinese table will be playing mafia with all of them!

Monday, July 2, 2007

Being "Chinese"

I don't ever tell Chinese people I'm from the US. I always say Chongqing, where I was born. Even when I went to get my glasses fixed and was forced to answer (the size of my screws were much smaller than those on Chinese glasses), I just said "abroad." I somehow feel like native Chinese people treat Chinese and Chinese-Americans differently. Maybe it's the assumption that Americans must be arrogant and rich that makes me uncomfortable. Or the fact that it's easier to strike up a conversation as a fellow Chinese. Or because I still see myself as Chinese, despite having grown up in the states.

Most of the time, I can get away with being a "southerner," although sometimes the way I dress gives me away. When I do successfully feign Chinese, I find myself facing an entirely new set of challenges - I am expected to converse with the vocabulary and fluidity of a native Chinese. Sadly, sometimes my language ability raises questions. Over and over, I've been greeted with the skeptical "where are you really from?" glances. (Thankfully, people thus far have been too polite to actually ask.) All the while, I see my American friends constantly praised for their linguistic prowess. To be honest, it's frustrating. As much as I improve, I'm still not good enough, at least not until I truly become a native-level speaker. And there's a long way to go...

Sunday, July 1, 2007

Simatai

A few pictures from the Simatai section of the Great Wall. It rained pretty heavily on the way there, but fortunately not while we were climbing. The other good news: the rain really cooled the temperature. The bad news: much of the Great Wall was veiled in fog.

view from the "top" (the rest of the wall was roped off and under the watch of two guards)

The highlight of the trip was ziplining down from the Great Wall to river bank below. The elderly man selling tickets for the zipline warned us not to get too excited since even he thought it wasn't fast or thrilling enough, so instead of going one at a time, my friend and I got strapped in together. (Since the zipline runs only on momentum, we figured the heavier, the faster - and it worked!)

the view on the way down

evidence that I actually rode the "flying fox"

Reflections on Week One of Class

Remember how I said the workload wasn't that bad? I take it back. When the weekend rolled around, I got slammed with essays. Three, to be exact, ranging in difficulty from write an e-mail to a friend who's having a hard time at work, to defend why gun sales should be restricted, using vocabulary and grammar from two lessons that discussed health and fitness...

If anything, IUP definitely focuses on learning to use our newfound vocabulary and grammar in various contexts. No tingxie here. Instead, classtime consists of intense verbal drills, first using the vocab as it's used in the lesson, and then using them to discuss widely disparate topics. Even though at times the lessons seem rote, it is definitely working. A fellow IUPer and I were out Friday night, and found ourselves using a lot of our new vocab comparing the status of women in China and in western cultures.

note:
Unlike the other programs, IUP's language pledge is only in effect at IUP and at IUP-sponsored activities. Outside of class, we can speak whatever. This is mostly because there are many grad students and professionals in the program (average age this summer is somewhere around 26) for whom a language pledge outside of class just isn't practical. Everyone seems to like speaking in Chinese, though, so thus far, I've really only spoken to IUPers in Chinese.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

IUP Begins

My schedule:
8 am - Danbanke (one-on-one): Reading Course (Thought and Society)
9 am - Hebanke (three-on-one): Listening Course part 1 (Frankly Speaking)
10 am - Hebanke (three-on-one): Reading Course (Thought and Society)
1 pm - Hebanke (three-on-one): Listening Course part 2 (Frankly Speaking)

So far, not too much work. About 100 words per day, plus some homework. Most of the time is spent on learning new material for the next day, since one-on-one and three-on-one classes are pretty intense. Chinese 133 definitely prepared me well - I'd estimate about 1/3 of the words in the first lesson are familiar.

In other news, life outside classes is great! I caved and bought a bike, and am now trying to learn how to mount and dismount the Chinese way. (explanatory pictures to come) I've also tried a new restaurant in Wudaokou almost every meal. Let me just take a moment to say that I love living with native Chinese people!! Especially since both my roommates went to college in Beijing, they know the ins and outs of the city: where to eat, where to visit, where to play. I also lucked out a little, since my roommates love to chat and take me around the city, and don't mind me pestering them with questions about Beijing, China or Chinese (at least not yet...)

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Strange but True

I needed 6 passport sized photos for IUP, so I went to a photo place on campus. Very simple and straightforward, right? So I thought, too, until they started photoshopping my face. Not only did they go in at high mag and erase some blemishes, they also lightened my skin tone considerably (I'm pretty tan for an Asian)! I understand the "white is pretty" mentality, and I wouldn't have such a response if it were normal pictures (say a family portrait), but somehow, the idea of altering pictures for IDs and official documents just doesn't seem right.

In other news, I am getting devoured by mosquitoes, and developing some sort of allergic response. The area around the bites (roughly 2 inches in diameter) is swollen, red, hard and extremely itchy. Being the pre-med student that I am, I looked it up. It's called Skeeter Syndrome, a local allergic reaction to bug bites. It happens most often when traveling to new locations. Taking my pre-med expertise one step further, I decided to try allergy medicine instead of normal itch relief cream and in two days, voila! The bites have stopped itching, the swelling has gone down and all that remains are sad-looking red spots. Henceforth, I am bathing myself in bug spray whenever I go out. And stocking up on allergy medication.

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

First Day at IUP

IUP is located in the center of Qinghua University, on the 5th, 6th and 7th floors of the North Humanities Building. When they say Qinghua is the biggest campus in China, they're not kidding. It's about the distance from Yale med school to the top of science hill, and just as wide. So far, I've just been walking (I walk to the med school and up science hill quite frequently, so I'm a pro), but if it gets too hot in the summer, I just might buy a bike. I'm not a great biker. I tried biking at Yale last semester (Chinese 133 was next to the Af-Am house and I had 10 minutes to get to the very top of science hill), but on day 2, in trying to dodge a pedestrian, I managed to become buddy-buddy with a very large tree. After that, I decided the shuttle was a better option. I'm also quite petrified of the cars in China...The good news is part of Qinghua campus is closed to motorized traffic. In any case, I will be getting my exercise this summer since, like my apartment, IUP doesn't have an elevator.

We had two placement tests: one 15-minute oral interview with 3 teachers (although one asked most of the questions), and one 2-hour written test. My Chinese experience is typical of many Chinese-Americans. I speak a dialect at home, so my Mandarin pronunciation isn't exactly standard, but it means my speaking and listening skills are such that I can get by conversationally in China and most people probably wouldn't suspect anything. But speaking Chinese at home also means my reading and writing abilities are way behind my conversational abilities. Formally (and fortunately), I've taken 4 years of Chinese school in high school and Chinese 133 at Yale, so I'm no longer illiterate.

The oral interview started out very casually, with the teachers asking about your Chinese background, what you think your strengths and weaknesses are, etc. They did ask some advanced questions to probe your vocabulary, though (eg. what do you think is unique of the Chinese-American situation?). There was also a part where you read a list of vocab words (in increasing level of difficulty), and then they ask you to 造句, or use them in sentences. They correct you immediately if you're wrong.

After the oral, the teachers tell you what your weaknesses are. I knew exactly what my problems are (my vocabulary isn't advanced enough to carry out sophisticated conversations and I don't distinguish s/sh, z/zh or c/ch when speaking). Nonetheless, hearing them flat-out say "You use very simple words to get around difficult questions" and "your pronuncation isn't accurate" still struck me as harsh. Of course, it's all in my best interest. The vocabulary is a definite thing to work on this summer. Surprisingly, though, they asked me if I wanted to correct my pronunciation. Since many native Chinese from southern provinces have the same problem, they said I would be just fine in China as is. I told them I wanted to correct it, to which they immediately replied, "we're going to ask your teachers to be very very strict about it." Eeks.

The written test was okay. 30 minutes of listening: identify the tones (spoken very quickly!), identify the words that are the same (3 very similar-sounding phrases, differing only by one tone or one consonant, 2 of which are the same - unfortunately, the audio system wasn't very clear, so some of the consonants were very hard to tell apart), listening comprehension (sentences/passages with accompanying questions). 90 minutes of grammar, vocab and reading comprehension: grammar basically tested sentence structure in a variety of ways - inserting specific words and phrases into sentences, correcting sentences, fill-in-the-blank, etc. vocab tested 成语 (Chinese proverbs) and vocab. quite literally, they give you the proverb/phrase and you choose the synonym. reading comprehension is as you would expect.

Everything was in increasing level of difficulty (for instance, the last reading comprehension was in Old Chinese). We were asked to leave questions blank if we didn't know them, otherwise we might get in over our heads. At the end of the summer, we'll take the same exam again and see how much we've improved.

Course assignments come out Friday. In the meantime, it's meet-and-greet, campus tours, and hammering out living details. So far, it's been very easy to introduce myself and strike up conversations with other IUPers, but since this week is all administrative stuff and people are in and out, I haven't met very many other students. Classes start on Monday - I'll be sure to meet them then!

My Apartment

I finally moved into my apartment on Monday. It's a three-bedroom apartment just across the street from Qinghua University South Gate, exactly a 20-minute walk from IUP and one bus stop from Wudaokou subway station (5 minute walk). Part of the Qinghua Yuan apartment complex, the place is a little old and dusty (6th floor, no elevator), but there's AC and DSL internet, and given that it's also extremely cheap ($135 per month), I can't really complain.


The only thing I have yet to figure out is the shower. If you turn the handle towards hot, the water gets scaldingly hot, but at any other position, the water is cold. I will continue to tinker with the settings. Luckily, the weather these past few days hasn't been too bad, so short showers are a-okay.

I have two roommates, both of whom are Chinese. One just graduated college and is now working at Google. She works insane hours - last night, she got home at midnight, and this is only her second week! The other is a Beida graduate currently studying in France, but working in Beijing this summer. I'm really excited that they're native speakers so I can practice my Chinese with them all the time. Hopefully, they can also help me with my homework!!

Tibet: A Picture Story (Part 6)

Days Five, Six and Seven in Tibet (to and from Namuchuo Lake):
car issues:
filling up on gas (see the canister on the roof?) mid-way

we devised a handy contraption to block out the sun

flat tire, in the middle of a 140 km dirt road
did I mention that it was also raining?
spotted on the road:
sometime the snow really does come down in June

Namuchuo, finally:
we lived in a large one-room tent
obviously, it was nicer than the ones the Tibetans lived in, but it was a sort-of taste of their life.
the tent is made of two layers of fabric, both woven extremely tightly, so at night, even as you hear the wind howling, you don't really feel anything.

Namuchuo Lake at sunset

baaaa
the majority of Tibetans raise buffalo, sheep and goats

is that a baby sheep, a baby goat or a baby buffalo?
it's lying next to a buffalo, but it doesn't really look like a buffalo
we couldn't figure it out for the longest time, but then our guide told us it's a goat

Namuchuo Lake


Sunday, June 17, 2007

Tibet: A Picture Story (Part 5)

Day Four in Tibet (off to Mt. Everest!):
the little kids are obscuring the elevation, but it says 5248 m

the stove runs on dried manure (no kidding! Tibetans are very efficient in they're use of resources)
in case you're wondering, it really doesn't smell

buffalo manure drying on the side of the wall

getting to base camp, one hairpin loop at a time for 100 km

the last stretch, by horse-drawn carriage

Views of Mt. Everest:
base camp: 5200 m

China Mobile has service at base camp!!

the view from our room

over the course of the morning:
where'd it go?